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> 25# sandblaster sandblasting cabinet blaster abrasive
25# sandblaster sandblasting cabinet blaster abrasive
When ordering please specify the grit size(s) that you want.
120/240 extra fine min 3/64 nozzle
Black Magnum is an all purpose safe replacement for silica sand. This product cost effectively removes the risk of developing SILICOSIS.
IMPORTANT NOTE: SILICA SAND SHOULD NEVER BE USED FOR SANDBLASTING AS IT WILL CAUSE SILICOSIS; A SERIOUS DISEASE OF THE LUNGS. NEVER USE SILICA IN A BLAST CABINET. THIS WILL INCREASE YOUR EXPOSURE TO FREE SILICA. FREE SILICA CANNOT BE FILTERED OUT BY USING A RESPIRATOR AND SHOULD NEVER BE USED UNLESS USING AN AIR SUPPLIED HELMUT IN AN OUTDOOR AREA WITH GOOD VENTILATION. SILICA SAND BLASTING IS KNOWN TO CAUSE SILICOSIS AND IS LISTED AS A CLASS "A" CARCINOGEN. GET EDUCATED ABOUT SILICOSIS BEFORE ENGAGING IN SANDBLASTING ACTIVITIES.
OSHA SHOULD BE CONTACTED IF YOUR EMPLOYER IS USING SILICA SAND IN A BLAST CABINET OR OTHER EQUIPMENT WITHOUT PROPER AIR QUALITY TESTING, SAFETY EQUIPMENT AND EMPLOYEE EDUCATION ABOUT SILICOSIS.
When used as an abrasive blasting media for automotive restoration we recommend the 30/60 grit for all sheet metal and other structural applications with the exception of hoods, trunk lids, and body tops. Certain rules must be followed to avoid damage to these panels and a list of rules follows below. The rules should be studied and completely understood before attempting to blast a hood, trunk lid, or vehicle top with this product.
THE RULES FOR BLASTING HOODS, TRUNK LIDS, AND TOP PANELS Hoods, deck lids and top panels require special instruction and 60/120 grit black magnum to prevent damage to these panels. As a general rule, blasting pressures should be maintained ( below 35 psi for pressure pot systems ) ( below 100 psi for siphon systems ) for all automotive sheet metal applications including the exterior surfaces of hoods, deck lids and top panels. The underside of these panels must be blasted with extreme attention to the details that follow or damage will result.
* All framework and support structure not directly part of the top surface of these hoods, deck lids, or top panels may be blasted directly at no more than ( 35 psi for pressure pot systems ) ( 70 psi for siphon systems ). Care should be taken not to blast open areas on the underside of hoods, deck lids, or top panels in between the support structures until the following rule of thumb test is applied. Using only your thumb, apply pressure from the top side of these panels inward. If the sheet metal can be "oil-canned" (pushed) inward then no abrasive blasting or other metal removing process (this include d/a, grinder, etc.) may be used directly on the underside of these areas, if it will result in metal removal. Do not remove any metal from these areas by any means or else damage will result. The panel will begin to sink inward toward the concave side as far as the rule of thumb will allow it to go. The more metal is removed from the wrong area the further the panel will sink inward. Sheet metal always "grows" towards the side being blasted. This is not warp. Warp is totally different and the result of excessive pressure and heat along with high coefficients of peening force resulting in a washboard pattern. A piece of thin plexiglass is often useful to shield areas that cannot be blasted, while working on the support structure framework.
* The underside of a hood, trunk lid, or top panel may not be blasted with any media that will remove metal if it can be depressed inward using thumb pressure.
( This does not include walnut shell, plastic, or corn cob, that will not remove metal. These areas may be media blasted with these materials. We recommend the 20/30 grit walnuts shells for most of these delicate applications. )
* Any area not showing inward movement passes the rule of thumb and can be blasted on the underside without incident using an abrasive that will remove metal. Generally this includes the center line bead of hoods and deck lids, side strength beads and most depression inlets around air scoops, heavily rounded side corners, nose pieces, edges and all inner frame work or double inner panels ( most common on deck lids ) that are not part of the underside of the top surface of the panel.
* The entire top side of hoods, deck lids and top panels may be blasted without incident as long as the process is completed evenly and with the proper pressure controls ( 35 psi max for pressure pot systems ) ( 70 psi max. for siphon systems ) and appropriate media(s).
* Never partially blast the top side of these panels and then stop part way thru and decide to use an alternative method of paint removal.
* Always start blasting with the front edge of the hood and work from front to back and not side to side. This will have little effect when everything is completed but will prevent panic attacks and second guessing during the process which may cause you to stop and try something different that will cause permanent damage.
* Always strip the top side before progressing to the underside and do not deviate from these instructions.
* Never start with a deck lid.
* Never start with a top panel.
* Always start with anything but a hood, deck lid or top panel if you are inexperienced at blasting sheet metals. This will help you learn to maintain a correct blasting distance ( approx. 9 inches for pressure pot systems ) ( approx. 4 inches for siphon systems ) and provide ample opportunity to work out inconsistencies in blasting equipment and pressure controls on less delicate sheet metal components that are not as likely to be damaged with abuse or mistakes.
* Always strip one layer at a time and work in 1/2 to 1 square foot areas. This helps keep heating of the metal to a minimum and provides the fastest stripping speeds on soft paints such as lacquers.
* Never strip more than 1 or 2 layers of paint at one time.
* Never dwell in one location for more than a few seconds.
* Never holding the nozzle too close to the part being blasted.
* Always maintain a proper distance in relation to the part of ( approx. 9 inches for pressure pot systems )( approx. 4 inches for siphon systems ).
* Do not start in the middle of a panel and then move around to different locations or strip all outside edges and then work towards the center in a spiral design. This will result in unnecessary panic attacks. Remember to finish that which you start. DO NOT CHANGE SETTINGS! DO NOT DEVIATE FROM THESE INSTRUCTIONS!
* Do not exceed ( 35 psi for pressure pot systems ) ( 70 psi siphon systems ) or use a round particle ( this includes glass beads, sand, star blast, cinter balls, ceramic shot, steel shot, etc. ).
* Never start blasting unless you have clearly understood these rules and fully intend to complete each panel that you begin work on without exception.
* Always ask for clarification if you have not completely understood these rules and have confidence in your ability to complete what you start. We stand behind these blasting techniques and will make ourselves available to offer any additional information or clarification about these rules and / or refute other bad advice or experiences you may have had with regard to media blasting antique vehicles. These rules have been tried over thirteen years and are proven to be truth. As with all other sources of knowledge, it will only help you if it is applied properly with understanding. Good luck. Have a blast and God bless.
